Archive | 9:51 pm

More caricature drawing preparation, part 8

19 Sep

So, what is so special about this drawing? Well, I first drew several versions from a photo, and this version was drawn without the photo, and with a slightly different expression.

More caricature Prep, part 8

The likeness isn’t there, nor the anatomy, but it does look much more inspired than the previous drawings I did today.

The point seems to be to draw like crazy, but while you’re doing that, vary what you draw to keep it interesting. I’m sure there are people who can draw exactly the same thing over and over, but it seems that I’m not one of those people.

That is all.

Advertisements

Tom Richmond’s MAD Blog

19 Sep

Tom Richmond has a good tutorial on how to create caricatures, both for the (budding) quick draw and studio caricaturists. It is part of the MAD website. I could use some of his tips (but I haven’t read through all the five parts he has posted so far) to improve my own drawings immediately.

According to Tom, a good caricature should have three distinct qualities:

  • likeness — if people can’t see who it is supposed to be, the caricature is no good
  • exaggeration — exaggerating the features is what makes a caricature different from a straight portrait
  • statement — the artist has to add something specific to the drawing that say something about what the artist thinks or wants to convey about the person

Of course, there is much more to this tutorial, and I invite you to read if for yourself.

That is all.

More caricature drawing preparation, part 7

19 Sep

Another quick sketch based on a small fuzzy photo in a local newspaper. I tried two versions, to see if I get any better in the second attempt.

More caricature prep, part 7 (version 1)

More caricature prep, part 7 (version 2)

I personally think the second version is much better.

That is all.

More caricature drawing preparation, part 6

19 Sep

More caricature prep, part 6I did some more reading in the book about caricature drawing, and saw that I still need some more drawing practice. To check, I tried to use a photo in a free local newspaper as a reference for my drawing.

While I didn’t need to correct this drawing as much as before, it still has a lot of things wrong with it. So much so, that I have decided to keep trying to stylize photos until I have a better feel for the subject.

I did another sketch (which I won’t bother to show you), of a building I’m somewhat familiar with, and saw it didn’t exactly measure up to my expectations. Yes, there was a resemblance, but it wasn’t very great, and a lot of things didn’t match up.

That is all.

What is in that Copic marker skin tone set?

19 Sep

I wanted to buy Copic ciao markers to learn coloring my sketches as early as possible. If I want to become a street artist (as a possible extra source of income, on the side), I should be able to present drawings people genuinely like, and color is certainly part of that.

Always on the lookout to save money without sacrificing quality, I checked if the skin tone set made by Copic is more expensive than buying the 12 markers separately. And indeed it is. Of course, if you buy the markers separately, you will miss the handy container. However, if you’re like me, the container will only be used to store, and while using the markers, they lie around on the table. To store, a simple carton box will do just as well. If really want to have a handy container, you could make sections inside a box that will hold each marker in its separate section.

So what colors are in this skin tone set? Well, through Google image search I found an image with the package, and it had these colors stated on them:

  1. YR 02 light orange
  2. R02 flesh
  3. R20 blush
  4. R32 peach
  5. E00 skin white
  6. E04 lipstick natural
  7. E11 barely beige
  8. E21 baby skin pink
  9. E35 chamois
  10. E37 sepia
  11. 0 colorless blender
  12. 100 black

Of course, the color highly depends on the paper you’re using, but to give you an indication of the colors, see this color chart on refuelled.com.

As I understand it the color naming works as follows:

  • leading letters indicate the color group (BV = Blue Violet, V = Violet, RV = Red Violet, R = Red, YR = Yellow Red, Y = Yellow, YG = Yellow Green, G = Green, BG = Blue Green, B = Blue, E = Earth, etc.)
  • first digit indicates the “dullness”, or how much grey is added to the tone, the higher the digit, the duller the color
  • second digit indicates how dark the tone is, the higher the digit, the darker the color

Then there are special “colors”:

  • 0 colorless blender, to make blended color ranges (one color slowly changing into another color over a distance); basically, to dilute a marker’s color
  • 100 black, for black-and-white effects

When you start collecting colors, I’ve read you should pick your skin tones first, because those are the most important if you draw and color human (like) figures. Next, you should pick some colors in the same color category (letters and first digit) and pick several shades of that color, e.g. a 0, 3 and 5.

I guess it’s needless to state that coloring is expensive, especially if you want predictable colors, as with the Copic markers (but also in other media, where you want the professional colors instead of the student colors). A well colored piece of art can sell at a much higher price than an equivalent monochrome ink drawing. People are better able to connect with it, and therefore willing to spend more money on the artwork. “Better marketable” it is called I believe. Even so, it stands to reason that a well inked drawing can also be very “marketable”, depending on the subject and the taste of the audience.

That is all.

Refill and resharpen your Faber-Castell PITT pens

19 Sep

Googling for how to refill my Faber-Castell PITT pen, I found a good tip on The Web Comic List (Anyone using Faber Castell PITT pens?). It is this YouTube video about how to use the other end of the nib to get a whole new fresh (and sharp) tip.

And how about refilling your marker? well, look at the back. There is a cap you can remove with a pair of pliers (gently). Once you have, you can refill it with India ink.

Don’t put too much in there, because it will overload the felt and drip from the nib. If that happens, keep your pen vertical, let it drip for a minute and use a piece of tissue paper to remove the excess ink. Always do this over a piece of disposable paper, so your furniture doesn’t get stained permanently.

Once you’re done, pop back the cap, and start drawing.

By the way, I tried the resharpen trick on my Faber-Castell PITT artist pen big brush, and I saw it didn’t have a double tip. The other side of the nib was blunt. Ah well, you can’t have everything.

That is all.